Tuesday, 24 March 2020

Pattern Review - Uvita Top and Add-On Bundle by Itch To Stitch




This is my second time making the Uvita Top by Itch to Stitch. The first time it was also my first ever knit project. I stitched it up on my regular sewing machine in a springy ribbed stretch jersey knit. What should have been a simple, quick and fun sew turned into a sweaty, frustrating swearathon induced by my machine munching the fabric every third stitch 😫 If I could go back and give some advice to my newbie self it would be, set your presser foot pressure to 1, stabilise your fabric and use a walking foot ...... and if all that fails buy a serger 😂 

So 2 years on, armed with my beloved serger and more knit experience under my belt I thought I would try this pattern again. I was especially inspired when I saw the fabulous Uvita Top Add-on Pack available and all the wonderful ways I could jazz up this essentially simple top.


Pattern Review




The first point to make about about the Uvita Top pattern is that it is free.... yes you heard right, this lovely pattern is free! What's more the add-on pack is only $5. So for fantastic value for money it doesn't get much better than this. 


Style Options

The basic top features flattering dropped shoulders and a wide neck combined with a relaxed comfortable fit. There are two sleeve length options, long and 3/4 . I have also seen lovely examples without sleeves where the drop shoulder is finished forming a pretty cap sleeve perfect for a lightweight summer tee.


 
Floppy Stand-up Collar

image courtesy of Itch to Stitch
Add-on features, including wonderful fit and flare sleeves, cute kangaroo pocket, a relaxed floppy stand-up collar and thumb hole cuffs, offering plenty of scope to make this pattern your own. With all this choice the Uvita is a versatile pattern you can use again and again to create a wide variety of mid season tops and sporty garments all with their own unique style.


Sewing Competency

If you are making the basic top it is a really simple and quick sew with no special challenges for even the newest sewist. A great first knit pattern for the beginner. If you dont have a serger remember to use a stretch or ball point needle, of the correct size for your fabric weight, and walking foot on your standard machine. Set your presser foot pressure to 1 if your fabric is very stretchy. You may also need to stabilise your fabric with spray on starch or by laying tissue paper between the layers which you pull away afterwards. You may find a more stable knit like Ponte del Roma more easy to handle on a standard machine for a first knit project.

The Add-Ons represent a bit more of a challenge and are perfect for adventurous beginners looking to develop their skills. Skills include top stitching and bar stitching, fitting grommets, edge binding and pocket placement. 

The instructions are very clear so just take your time and work through methodically. I find it always best to read through all the instructions first before starting. Commence with the add-on instructions and you will see where to fit in the standard top steps.


Sporty thumb-hole Cuffs


PDF Printing & Pattern Assembly 
  • This pattern is available in PDF format only...no biggy! Personally I like the stage of piecing and sticking together 😁 It's time I use to get to know the pattern and think about how I'm going to approach the make. However, if you don't fancy that you can send the large format A0 version for printshop or online printing.
  • The PDF is layered meaning you only have to print the sizes you need making it super easy to cut or trace out your pattern pieces after. 
  • Pages need to be trimmed before sticking together but the page guidelines and corner circles make lining up a cinch. 

Fabric

Itch to Stitch recommend using a two-way or four-way stretch knit fabric with 25% to 50% horizontal stretch. French terry, cotton Lycra jersey and double brush poly are good choices. They also recommend that if using rayon spandex knit, you may need to go down one size or more. 

I chose a lightweight Cotton Poly Viscose Triblend from my existing stash, mainly because I love the colour and floral pattern. I snagged this lovely knit fabric from Knitpop one of my favorite online shops for quality knit fabric. They ship lightening fast too.

Triblend isn't a particularly springy knit as it doesn't contain lycra / spandex. I was concerned it wouldn't have good recovery but after a few days of wearing it's fine. Without lycra the finished garment does have a more relaxed fit. If I was using this type of fabric again I might go down a size. 

Sizing

I feel this pattern sizes a little big so I would recommend measuring the pattern pieces before deciding on which size to make. 

Sizes range from US 00 to 20 

Using my measurements I made a US size 6 and graded down to a 4 on the hips. If I was making a more sporty version I would probably grade down to a 4 on the neck and shoulders for a more streamlined fit, which is normally a standard alteration for me. I didn't do it this time as I wanted a relaxed fit.





The Uvita is a flattering fit for all body shapes as it's gently shaped to skim in all the right places 😉


Making up & Newbie Challenges



Uvita is a well drafted pattern with super clear, illustrated instructions making garment construction a doddle. Thank you Itch to Stitch 💖



It's worth noting that if you are adding pockets the first step is to construct and sew them into place on the front pattern piece so do make sure you are happy with the anticipated finished garment length before doing this as once they are in place shortening or lengthening will require removing the pocket piece...difficult and likely to ruin your fabric after having bar stitched the pocket corners.



Once pockets are in place the basic garment is constructed. I particularly liked that the sleeves are sewn into place before sewing up the sides. So no fiddly insert sleeves to do ... happy bunny 😁 Makes serging much easier too !



I added thumb hole cuffs as I've always wanted to try making these. I found the process straight forward but a little fiddly attaching the binding around the thumb hole ... this is more to do with my hands than the pattern !


If like me you have an aversion to basting it really is worth basting the cuffs into place to get the right placement of the thumb hole before stitching into place. Poor placement is likely to result in twisted sleeves.

For me the sleeves and cuffs seem a little looser than I would like. This is probably just due to the fabric I chose. Something to consider when I make this pattern again.

.... and finally


I really do like how my Uvita turned out and I shall be making more of these. A great mid season addition to my wardrobe which can be individualised using the range of options in the add-on pattern pack. I'm already planning my next Uvita using a cosy french terry.



Sources & Links

If you feel inspired to make your Uvita Top you can pick up the patterns here:

Uvita Top Pattern  - Free pattern

Uvita Add-On Pack

Fabric sourced from:

Knitpop online store


This article contains affiliate links which don't cost you any more but do give me credits and help feed my sewing addiction.

#sewfrenchseams #uvitatoppatternreview #patternreview





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